The Wedge

The Wedge is not polite. It is a physics trick played on the coastline. A jetty and the right swell conspire to jack up waves into explosive, hollow closeouts that pitch surfers and bodyboarders into the air and then slam them onto six inches of sand. You will hear the slap of water against concrete, the hollow thunder of a breaking face, and the collective intake of breath from the promenade when someone gets launched. Spectators line the sand and rocks, cameras trained, sunscreen and salt in equal measure. On big south swells the backwash becomes a menace; exiting the water is its own small battle. Lifeguards will shout and flag, which matters because this is a place reserved for those who can read its moods. If you go, get there early. The parking fills and the long walk back to your car will teach you respect for timing and tide.